Are You Seeking the 100 ft. Wave?

Nazare, Portugal // photo courtesy Luis Ascenso

The docu-series, “100 Foot Wave” is riveting and it’s not only for surfers (as confirmed by numerous non-surfing friends who love it). As a filmmaker, I marvel at the creators’ dedication to chronicle the many years this series spans and the intimate moments that are tenderly depicts. A little background from HBO’s description:

[100 Foot Wave] intimately captures the decade-long odyssey of surfing pioneer Garrett McNamara, who, after visiting Nazaré, Portugal in hopes of conquering a 100 foot wave, pushed the sport to ever-greater heights and alongside locals helped transform the small fishing village into the world’s pre-eminent big-wave surfing destination.

However, the series is about far more than waves and machismo (there are wonderful female characters as well). It is about determination, what it means to be in a ‘flow state’, overcoming physical and emotional setbacks, balancing family with one’s individual needs, trauma, how our family histories can shape us, and how we can harness them to reshape our destiny.

As a character study, Garrett is complex. Upon first meeting, he presents as narrowly focused; singularly set on getting yet another hit of adrenaline from the next big drop on a bigger wave. His pursuit seems to border between enrapture and curious obsession. But as the series continues and we learn more about Garrett and his past, the reasons for his motivation begins to crystalize. Meanwhile, Garrett is 50-something years old, and continues to charge the biggest waves facing world class athletes half his age. But watching Garrett mature emotionally, may be as satisfying as watching him barrel down a wave that could only have been sent directly from Neptune’s trident or the Maori’s Tangaroa, God of the Sea.

Viewers get a glimpse into Garrett’s close relationships, including that with his wife, Nicole (I imagine some disagreements between them that didn’t make the cut), brothers, and his under studies. We learn about his fraught childhood, (his mother was in the Children of God cult) which provides further insight into his present day motivations.

We see times when Garrett is able to take a step back from the life threatening waves (mostly only when so injured he cannot surf) but at times reflect that he needn’t have the biggest wave to feel complete.

I’m still working through the layers of this story weeks after viewing. In particular, I’m grappling with the character’s need to have the greatest wave and the suffering he endures while seeking it, not to mention those around him. I for one, can relate to the desire for bigger waves, more adrenaline, however, I found that it was the moments in which he could let go of the 100 foot wave and instead enjoy all that he has accomplished, to be his most profound moments of acceptance and humanity.

All in all, this is a wonderful series that provides an opportunity to reflect on one’s own experience in the world.

Are you seeking a version of the 100 foot wave? Is it a some thing? A state of mind? And is there equanimity if it never comes?